Grooming:
Yorkies have very human-like hair, a wash and wear coat. They are single-coated and washing them every 7-10 days and using good products can help to ensure a quality coat. Brushing daily is essential if one plans of keeping the long show coat. I prefer the shorter puppy cut myself.
Do not use a shampoo for humans. Dogs and humans require different pH balances and using the wrong kind can harm a dog’s coat and skin.
My preferred products are from www.chrissystems.com. I use the Day-to-Day moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, as well as the Ice-on-Ice leave-in spray. Don't brush your Yorkies coat when it is completely dry as it will damage the coat. I spray the Ice-on-Ice before brushing. It works wonders! These are the products I use, the brush from Petsmart and the products from CC:
Be sure to have all of your supplies (including a towel) on hand before starting the bath. NEVER leave your Yorkie unattended on a table top or counter. The puppy WILL attempt to leap to the floor, very possibly resulting in broken bones. Gently bathe puppy in bathtub or sink. Be sure to take the time to work out tangles as they will get worse with each passing day. Wet the tangle with warm water and work it out with your fingers as you bathe the puppy. If you use the comb, be careful not to pull painfully on the puppy's coat while working out the tangle. Be sure to completely rinse your Yorkie's hair after shampooing and conditioning. Depending on the length of your Yorkie's coat, you may wish to blow dry the coat after the bath. If you do so, be sure to watch the heat as you can easily burn your puppy with the hot air. You will want to brush the Yorkie as you dry him or her to prevent tangles. Comb through the coat after the drying and brushing with the metal comb. This will eliminate most of the tangles, knots, and mats that may have been missed by the brushing. Always remove mats or tangles as soon as you discover them as they will get worse with each passing day.
Hair trimming: The hair under the pads of the feet, the top 1/3 of the ears, and the hair around the rectum should be trimmed regularly.
Housetraining:
Terri Shumsky's 10 Commandments of Housebreaking:
1) THOU SHALT NOT BRING HOME A PUPPY OR ADULT DOG AND EXPECT IT TO KNOW IMMEDIATELY WHERE THE POTTY IS. Every time they move from one home to another they need to be taught where to go.
2) THOU SHALT NOT EXPECT A YOUNG PUPPY OF 8-16 WEEKS TO BE HOUSEBROKEN. That's like expecting a one year old child to be completely potty trained -- It just AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN.
3) THOU SHALT NOT ALLOW THE NEW PUPPY TO MAKE ALL OVER THE HOUSE AND RUN LOOSE AND THEN WONDER WHY THE DOG GOES BACK TO THE SAME SPOT TO MAKE. You will have to disinfect the house thoroughly where he has done his business. White vinegar in the water will help neutralize the smell because he WILL GO BACK to the spot that smells.
4)THOU SHALT NOT YELL AT THE PUP (DOG) WHEN HE/SHE GOES IN THE WRONG SPOT. Better than yelling, you need to just clean it up thoroughly and put the dog where he is supposed to go. Dogs and most animals learn much better by the PRAISE AND REWARD system.
5) THOU SHALT NOT KEEP THE YOUNG PUPS 6 MONTHS OR YOUNGER CONFINED FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME. They are too young until at least 6 months to hold it for that long. Take them out to make frequently and generously praise and reward them for going where you want them to.
6) THOU SHALT NOT PUT A LONG HAIRED TOY DOG OUT IN THE RAIN TO MAKE UNLESS YOU WANT TO USE A HAIR DRYER WHEN THEY COME BACK IN. To do so could cause a chill and tonsilitis and/or tracheobronchitis.
7) THOU SHALT NOT EXPECT AN UN-NEUTERED OR UN-SPAYED DOG TO HAVE PROPER POTTY MANNERS. It is only nature telling them (boys and girls) to leave calling cards and scents for the other sex to notice. Chin up, if they were goats, they would constantly PEE on their heads to make themselves attractive to the opposite sex.
8) THOU SHALT HAVE A POTTY PLACE GATED OFF FOR YOUR YOUNG PUPPY AT LEAST UNTIL 6 MONTHS OF AGE. It's unrealistic to expect a young puppy to be completely trained until then.
9) THOU SHALT SPEND A LOT OF TIME WATCHING THE DOG WHEN THE DOG IS NEW TO THE HOUSE TO CORRECT BAD HABITS BEFORE THEY START.
10) THOU SHALT READ THESE COMMANDMENTS INSTEAD OF BEING ANGRY AT THE DOG AND MEND YOUR WAYS. A dog wants nothing more than to please you.
There are two methods of potty training, and if the weather where you live is not too harsh, it's okay to train them to go outside, if they're old enough....at least 5-6 months....if not, then you may want to consider Pad Training.
CRATE TRAINING
A crate is an indoor dog house, just big enough for the dog to stand up and lie down, and turn around in. It's your dog's den, home and place where your dog can feel safe. When you go shopping, or when your pup is very young, it's a good place to keep him out of trouble, however, don't expect a very young puppy to stay in there for really long periods of time. Keep the time crated to short intervals and extend them a little at a time as the pup gets older. They cannot be expected to hold their water for 8-16 hours at a time when just a young baby. The crate is the dog's "space" in the house. This should be a place where your puppy feels safe. It's his house. He should be made to feel secure in his house and he can sleep while his owners do what they must do, run errands, etc. You must invest some time and lots of praise to have a canine companion that will be devoted to you for a lifetime. It's worth the time you will invest. When the dogs are young, they all go through destructive behavior and most of them outgrow it and eventually you will feel safe leaving him alone in the house. Please remember that if you allow the dog to "go" all over the house when he first comes to your home, he will go back to where he smells it.
PAD TRAINING
For yorkies many feel pad training is the best way to train since they are small long-haired dogs. Going outside often is not feasible for many people due to inclement weather or due to limitations on how often one can take their dog out. Yorkies need to go potty more often than big dogs because they have smaller bladders.
Mia is pad trained. To teach her how to use her pads, as a baby I used a playard from Target. One side had her potty pad, and the other side had food, water, toys, and a little bed. I left her there any time I had to leave her, which was never more than a few hours. After she grew a little bit older, I put a pad on the floor next to her playard and just put her in the playard before bedtime and first thing in the morning. I left her in the room when I was gone, so she had more room to roam but was not given free reign of the entire house.
Eventually she got the idea of using the pads very well and the playard was not necessary. Now she goes right on the pads that are just on the floor, we have one in the living room and one in my bedroom, and she is great with it, I never had to do hardly anything! And now that she's potty trained she has full reign of the house when I'm gone, no pen necessary, without any hardly any accidents. Here is the playard I got from Target, and another puppy pen option from Petsmart:
As far as what NOT to do, NEVER stick a dogs nose in it, thats known pretty much everywhere in the dog world as an old method that does not work and shouldn't be used. The only time you can punish/reward bad/good behavior is RIGHT WHEN IT HAPPENS!! Ten seconds after they go is NO GOOD because they don't connect your punishment/reward with their behavior. You can never punish them after you find a mess, unless you catch them in the act doing it. NEVER hit, only clap really loud and startle the dog when they are peeing on the carpet, yelling a stern NO. NEVER limit their water intake just because you dont want them to pee in the house. Especially for yorkies, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT for dogs to stay hydrated. Keeping water from them is just cruel.
In my opinion, spanking a dog, especially a tiny dog, is wrong. You don't want a dog that is scared of you, or they will always have accidents and never know why what they are doing is wrong. Positive enforcement is the only method that will get results, whether you are crate training or pad training. There is no need to ever yell or scream or hit, just a stern no gets a much better, and in my opinion quicker, reaction.
***Please note this is only my opinion and/or the opinion of other breeders. With the exception of the liver shunt section, this may or may not be the advice of your veterinarian. Please consult you veterinarian for any and all problems your pet might be experiencing. This can be used only as a general guide.***
Much thanks to Terri Shumsky for her permission to post her advice on this page!
Hypoglycemia:
Many puppies are lost unnecessarily each year, simply because breeders know too little about hypoglycemia and many veterinarians find it difficult to diagnose. Usually the puppy is comatose the first time a Vet sees him and since he usually responds immediately to intravenous or subcutaneous dextrose injections, the Vet often diagnoses the problem as an acute viral hepatitis or encephalitis, (the reaction is the same in all of these cases).
However, in a young puppy, or a very tiny toy dog, this condition is usually hypoglycemia, brought on by stress or shock in some form. Also, it usually occurs in puppies from 4 to 5 months of age but CAN occur in mature toy breeds when they are subjected to STRESS.
The stress usually causing this condition is:
1- Overhandling young puppies and not letting them get enough rest and sleep.
2- A puppy refuses to eat for over a period of 8 hours due to change of home and/or food.
3- Exposure to low room temperatures for a period of time or sleeping in drafts.
Signs of an attack are a weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, frothing or drooling from the mouth - sometimes even a seizure and drain of blood from the head. A check of the gums will show them to be pale, almost a grayish white in color rather than a healthy bright pink. The puppy can go into shock and, if not cared for properly and promptly, may even die. The puppy will appear limp and lifeless with the gums and tongue usually grayish blue in color. Often the eyes are unfocused and barely open. They may appear to be slightly sunken in. Temperature will be sub-normal and the puppy will be shivering and trembling in the early stages. As condition worsens, the puppy either goes into a coma or convulsions. Hypoglycemia is a metabolic disorder and death will result, unless properly DIAGNOSED AND CARED FOR IMMEDIATELY, if the case is severe. The level of the blood sugar must be raised at once and the stress condition treated.
If the seizure is bad or not CARED FOR IN TIME, the puppy may REMAIN IN A COMA FOR DAYS. When this happens, you must feed him, keep him warm and quiet and see that he has proper eliminations.
When hypoglycemia is caught in time, there is no reason why a puppy won't come out of it and never have it again if the stress factor is eliminated.
Even if this never occurs to your puppy, or adult, it is important that you know about this to aid your Vet in diagnosing the problem. This usually affects Tiny Toy Breeds and Most of them outgrow this danger by 6 months of age. However, it can happen to a tiny dog even as an adult and careful attention must be paid to the diet of any TINY TOY DOG.
If your puppy is conscious, give him/her a little Karo Syrup under its tongue, or rubbed on its gums. You can also mix with Pedialyte, stir to dissolve, and dribble it into the puppy's mouth. I think that Nutri-Cal also works extremely well in an emergency. The puppy should begin to improve within about ten to fifteen minutes, if not contact your vet as quickly as you can.
Nutri-Cal is a high calorie dietary supplement in a low volume form. It is a great tasting vitamin paste. You can purchase this tube for under $10.00. I recommend that you have this on hand for all emergencies and especially when you travel with your yorkie. I ALWAYS have tube with me and Mia!
Dental Care:
Brushing your yorkie’s teeth is important; it prevents dental disease and unnecessary tooth loss. Teeth cleaning kits are available from a variety of online pet stores, pet supply stores, or your veterinarian. They usually include a finger-brush and canine toothpaste. Human toothpaste can upset your dog’s stomach, and doggie toothpaste is often flavored to your dog’s liking. There are also freshening wipes available at most pet stores which can be used to wipe excess plaque from the teeth and gumline. Regularly brushing your yorkie’s teeth will reduce the need to have them professionally cleaned by your vet.
You should start brushing your puppy’s teeth by letting the pup get used to you touching his mouth and rubbing the outside of the mouth. You then can earn their trust to let you inspect their teeth, after which you can introduce to toothpaste and the brush. The point is not to terrify your dog and have them fear you forever! With each sitting you should be able to brush more teeth without scaring the dog. Always give positive reinforcement and talk to them calmly as you are brushing.
Liver Shunt:
The following is a Q&A about liver shunt with Dr. Karen Tobias. Dr. Tobias is an Associate Professor in Small Animal Surgery at the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine.
What is a liver shunt?
A liver shunt is a blood vessel that carries blood around the liver instead of through it. In some animals a liver shunt is a birth defect (“congenital portosystemic shunt). In others, multiple small shunts (“acquired portosystemic shunts”) form because of severe liver disease such as cirrhosis. Why do animals with shunts have problems?
In the normal animal, food and other ingested materials are broken down or digested in the intestines and absorbed into the portal blood stream, where they are carried to the liver. The liver stores some of the food for energy, processes some of it into safe chemicals, and uses some of it to make proteins and other substances. Because the blood bypasses the liver in dogs with shunts, toxins may build up in the bloodstream or kidneys. Additionally, the animal lacks the necessary materials to give it a ready source of energy and to help it grow.
What are the clinical signs of a liver shunt?
Clinical signs are often seen at a young age and include small stature, poor muscle development, behavioral abnormalities (circling, disorientation, unresponsiveness, staring into space, head pressing), seizures, and quiet demeanor. Other less common signs include drinking or urinating too much, apparent blindness, diarrhea, and vomiting. In some animals the signs are associated with eating protein. Other animals are diagnosed when they take a long time recovering from anesthetics (i.e. barbiturates) or sedatives (i.e. acepromazine). Some animals show no signs until they are older, when they develop bladder and kidney infections and stones. What breeds are commonly affected with shunts?
Small breed dogs tend to have shunts that form outside of the liver (“extrahepatic”). In the United States, Yorkshire terriers have almost a 36 times greater risk of developing shunts than all other breeds combined. Extrahepatic shunts can be seen in any small breed but are also reported commonly in schnauzers, Maltese, dachshunds, Jack Russell terriers, Shih Tzu, Lhasa apso, Cairn terriers, and poodles. Large breed dogs tend to retain the fetal liver shunt (patent ductus venosus), or “intrahepatic” shunts. In the Netherlands, about 2% of Irish Wolfhounds are born with intrahepatic shunts. Intrahepatic shunts can be seen in any large breed dog and have been reported in some small breed dogs (especially poodles); in the United States, we see them most often in Labrador retrievers. Australian shepherds, Australian cattle dogs, Samoyeds, and Old English sheepdogs are also commonly reported. Are shunts hereditary?
A disease is likely to be hereditary if it occurs more commonly in one breed than others; if it occurs in a family of dogs; or if it or a closely related disease is proven hereditary in other breeds or species. Liver shunts are considered hereditary in Irish wolfhounds, Cocker spaniels, Maltese, and Yorkshire terriers, and are probably hereditary in several other breeds. The affected dog should be castrated or spayed and, because the mode of inheritance is not known, it is best to avoid breeding the parents. How is a shunt diagnosed?
On blood work, dogs with congenital liver shunts usually have low blood urea nitrogen (BUN) and albumin concentrations. They may be slightly anemic or have red blood cells that are smaller than normal (“microcytosis”). They also may have increases in liver enzymes (“AST”, “ALT”). Their urine may be dilute or infected and contain small spiky crystals (“ammonium biurate”). None of these laboratory changes are specific for a liver shunt; however, when veterinarians see these abnormalities, they will usually measure bile acid or ammonia concentrations to evaluate liver function. A liver shunt cannot be definitively diagnosed by blood work; shunting can only be found with advanced techniques such as scintigraphy, ultrasound, portography, Cat scan (“CT”), MRI, or exploratory surgery.
Do all dogs with high bile acids have shunts?
Bile acids can be increased with any liver disease. Bile acids can also be mildly increased in normal dogs, particularly in some breeds (such as Maltese) where chemicals in their blood interfere with the test. Most dogs with liver shunts have fed bile acids over 100 (normal <15-20). If the bile acids are only mildly increased or the animal seems normal, many veterinarians will simply rerun the test in 3-4 weeks. How is a shunt corrected surgically?
Because shunts inside the liver are more difficult to find and close off, surgery of dogs with intrahepatic shunts is best performed by a board certified surgeon (ACVS Diplomate). Surgery for congenital extrahepatic liver shunts is slightly easier, particularly if the veterinarian has a lot of experience, and is performed at most veterinary surgery referral centers. The surgeon must find the abnormal blood vessel and close it off to force blood to flow back through the liver. Unfortunately, the blood vessels inside the livers of some dogs are so poorly developed that they will not open quickly. Therefore, most surgeons will use a device that slowly closes the shunt, such as an ameroid constrictor. Other options include placement of a suture or cellophane band around the shunt or coils inside of the shunt. Placement of coils can be performed through a catheter in the neck (“jugular”) vein; however, because they tend to cause rapid obstruction of the shunt in animals, their use is still being researched. Source: http://www.tsfannymaelivershunt.com/commonlsfaq.htm
Collapsed Trachea:
The trachea is the valuable structure that connects the throat to the lungs. It is made up of 35-45 rings of cartilage that are joined by muscles and ligaments to create the “tube” that is know as the trachea. When the rings are closed from top to bottom, the trachea is collapsed. Rapid gasping for air can cause the trachea to flatten and make it hard for air to enter the lungs.
Toy dogs tend to have an abnormality in the genetic makeup of their tracheas. The rings easily loose their rigidity and are not able to retain their round shape.
Collapsed Trachea is different than reverse sneezing. Reverse sneezing is when the back of the throat spasms. The dog stands still, stretches out their neck, and often becomes bowlegged while they are trying to get air. It honks, wheezes, and often snorts during reverse sneezing episodes. Often the spasms will cease if they swallow a couple of times or if you close off their nostrils so it has to breathe through its mouth for a few seconds.
Other unique signs will differentiate tracheal collapse. If your dog breathes with a raspy sound or coughs reflexively when you rub their neck, they could have collapsed trachea. If the cough is one or two expulsive bursts, typically with a gag or retch at the end, they could have collapsed trachea. The most common sign is a chronic cough. It is often dry and harsh, and the phrase “goose honk” has been used to describe the condition. Coughing is often worse in the daytime. You should contact your vet ASAP if you experience any of these serious signs.
This is the main reason anyone who knows about the breed will recommend a harness as opposed to a collar/leash for a yorkie. Leashes attached to collar put too much pressure on the delicate tracheal structure.
Visit http://www.animalclinic.com/colltrac.htm for more information on collapsed trachea.
Breeding Yorkies:
I am not a breeder and have no experience doing so. But I have read a lot about the subject and this is just my version of what I have learned from responsible breeders.
One should not breed yorkies without first gaining a good understanding of the responsibilities that accompany such an endeavor. It takes a great deal of knowledge and dedication to breed quality Yorkshire terriers. Do not expect to make money breeding Yorkies as a hobby. Breeding and raising yorkies can be an expensive, time-consuming undertaking, as well as occasionally heartbreaking.
The breed standard is the goal of any responsible yorkie breeder. The standard is the description set forth by the AKC and is supported by the YTCA. This is what Terri Shumsky has to say about breeding:
"Before you consider breeding your Yorkie, send the pedigree of your female to several well known and trustworthy breeders. If possible go to a dog show and try to have the Yorkie judge evaluate your puppy, to tell you if it is good enough to be bred.
Before breeding the male and female should be certified free of brucellosis. This is a standard test that your vet can do on the 5th day of heat.
Most breeders don't insist on the male being certified as free of brucellosis but it would not be unusual to expect the male to be tested also before you breed to him.
There are many books available on the trials and tribulations of breeding toy dogs, and I suggest that you at least read one that lets you know what you're letting yourself in for and also buy as many whelping videos as you can.
Then if you're still interested, well that's where dedicated breeders come from!!"
Toy Dogs & Anesthesia:
A drug called Ketaset is used in combination with valium often as an injectable sedative. This is basically a shot given in the vein. It takes effect quickly and the vet is then able to easily intubate the dog and put them on isofluorane. Isofluorane is a gas anesthesia. The dog has a tube inserted into the trachea and the gas is administered through the tube. In the part of the tube that is in the trachea, there is a small soft bulb that is gently inflated so that no gas can escape. As long as it is inflated properly, it is perfectly safe and will not damage the trachea. While a dog is on isofluorane and asleep they are constantly breathing a set amount of gas. For most procedures there is little need for adjustment of the amount of gas, but it is easy to adjust. When an adjustment is made the results are seen very quickly. This also means that when the isofluorane is turned off, the dogs wake up very quickly. The isofluorane only has an anesthetic effect while the dog is actually breathing the gas. They may be groggy when they wake up, but that will be from the pre-anesthetic drugs like Ketaset/Valium that might have been given, not from the Iso. This is why we have all been drilled to make sure our vets use Isofluorane, because it is out of their system so fast that there is less risk of a problem. Vets using Ketaset/Valium only as an induction drug (meaning just to put them to sleep for a second to insert the tracheal tube) use a very, very tiny amount. The dog does go to sleep when the shot of Ketaset/Valium is given, but it is only for a minute or so. If we do not get the dog intubated during that minute of time for whatever reason, then we have to go to Plan B because the Ketaset Valium will not help much. The dog will be groggy, but not asleep.
There are a couple of different dangers in surgery for toy dogs and they are not insurmountable, but they are VERY SERIOUS.
1) DON'T ever allow the vet technician to intubate your toy dog. Too many small toy breeds have had TRACHEAL INJURY and suffered and DIED because of collapsing tracheas from injury to the trachea during intubation. Make sure that the vet knows that you expect him/her to use the smallest possible tracheal tube to intubate your toy dog. Speak up! It could mean saving the life of your little dog. If the vet treats you like an "overprotective" Mom, find another vet that will understand.
2) Proper use of Ace Promezaine as a pre-anesthetic injection is ok so that the dog can be intubated.
3) Isofluorane is the anesthetic of choice. Don't use Halothane or any of the barbiturates (see number 4, below). Some vets will "mask" a tiny dog with Isofluorane rather than use the injectable and some vets will not intubate at all, but this depends on the type of surgery being performed. This is an excellent method whenever possible.
4) Last but not least, DO NOT ALLOW YOUR VET TO USE ANY KIND OF BARBITUATES TO ANESTHESIZE YOUR TOY DOG. MOST PARTICULARLY NOT PENTABARB. Many toy dogs have died needlessly because of UNINFORMED VETS WHO ARE DECADES BEHIND IN USE OF ANESTHETICS FOR TOY DOGS. If your vet thinks Isofluorane is too expensive and refuses to use it, then FIND ANOTHER VET THAT will use it. It could and probably will save your dog's life.
A Word on "Teacups":
FOR THE RECORD...MIA IS NOT A TEACUP!!! She is more work than a normal yorkie, just to make sure she stays safe just because she is so fragile and tiny. Every time I take Mia out with me, which is a lot, I get at least 10 people everywhere I go stop me to talk about her. They always ask what breed she is, and I say yorkie, and they ask "oh so she's a teacup"? I explain no, she's a lot smaller than the average yorkie, but there is no such thing as a teacup. Reputable breeders despise the word, because many unscrupulous breeders have tried to raise their puppies smaller and smaller, breeding not for the healthy standard but for tiny size regardless of health. It is more common now because people love small dogs and are willing to pay lots of money for what they believe is a “teacup”. If a breeder claims to have teacup puppies, STAY AWAY!
Having said that, I think its important to know about the common misconception. The official breed standard for the Yorkshire terrier calls for adult Yorkies to have a weight of no more than seven(7) pounds. Yorkies according to history were always a small dog, but out crossing in many cases has caused some larger dogs. There is speculation that some "breeders" have used Silky Terriers and registered them as Yorkshire Terriers. This could happen in kennels where they have more than one breed. They have been bred for 50-60 years as a toy dog which averages 4-6 pounds... there are occasionally 2-4 pounders and occasionally 7-9 pounders. Most breeders will not breed a female under 4 or 5 pounds because to do so would be cruel and probably cause a C-section or other problems with a crowded uterus, so those that are too small to breed are sold as Tinies... (not tea cups and not miniature... just tiny). Also, small males 2-3 pounds, make breeding a little more difficult, though possible, due to the size of the male in comparison to the size of the female, so most breeders settle on a 4-7 pound size as a preference. It is possible therefore, for pups in the same litter to mature anywhere from 3 to 8 pounds in the same litter.
The terminology "tea cup" size came about in the 70's when the breed became more popular than the poodle which had three sizes, toy, miniature and standard. Poodle people would differentiate between toy and very tiny poodles by calling them tea cup meaning they could sit in a tea cup and were tiny. This size differential doesn't exist in Yorkshires. All Yorkies, no matter how large are small, are just that…yorkies! It simply means "tiny." Weight is a consideration but depending on the muscle and bone in a particular dog, they can weigh more or less than you think, i.e. a 12 inch at shoulders dog could be 7 lbs and be very skinny and fine boned, while a 9.5 inch at shoulders could also be 7 lbs. and look much smaller because it carries more muscle and bone.
The word “teacup” has generated a lot of controversy among breeders and yorkie owners alike. On average, Yorkshire terriers weigh between 5 and 7 pounds as adults. There are, of course, smaller Yorkies born that will weigh less. I get asked all the time "how do I know if this puppy will be a teacup?" There are no guarentees because there is no such thing as a teacup! If a breeder tells you they will definitely be a teacup, thats a huge red flag because that is obviously not a reputable breeder who would tell you such a thing. Bad breeders will say "these puppies are teacup" and that makes people want them and pay big money for them, when in reality they are just normal yorkies.
Luxating Patella:
A “luxating patella” is a dislocated knew joint on the front of their hind leg. Toy dogs are prone to this disorder due to their small size. It is actually extremely common in Yorkshire terriers. With age it tends to keep slipping out of its socket. This can occur in yorkies with weak muscles or tendons, as well as yorkies whose kneecap groove is too shallow or narrow. The knee usually slips inward and locks so that your yorkie can't bend its leg. Luxation can occur in one knee or both.
If luxating patella is suspected, the first treatment should be to crate the animal for a week or so and supervise their activity so that they do no jumping. Usually a vet prescribes prednisone to help with the inflammation. Surgery is often not needed unless the injury keeps the dog from normal movement or causes pain. Orthopedic surgeons perform these surgeries. Natural ways to help treat a yorkie with this condition is feed fresh food, keep them at a healthy weight, and give moderate exercise on a daily basis.
See http://www.animalclinic.com/luxpatel.htm for more information.
Nail Care:
Did you know that all dogs' toenails are attatched to the bones in the feet? If the nails get too long, it painfully twists the nails and the delicate foot bones. It should be done on a regular basis.
It's a good idea to get your dog used to having their feet touched. Start early, be gentle and always make it a pleasant experience. Dogs have scent pads in their feet and are very sensitive to touch. Initiating this practice in puppyhood will give you a good grooming foundation. Consider clipping the toenails when your Yorkie is fresh from the bath and the nails are softer. Its a good idea to get your veterinarian or groomer to show you how to cut your dogs nails. The nails must be kept short in order to promote good foot development. Have a good pair of sharp nail trimmers ready to do the job. Dogs nails curve down. Only trim the part of the nail that curves, as close to the tip as you can. Doing this regularly will help the quick to remain set back in the nail. If the nails are very long, then you should have a vet or qualified groomer do the trim. Don’t trim above the curve because that is where the vein ends. The vein will bleed profusely if it is cut. If you have trimmed back to far and the nail bleeds, place the styptic stick or stop quik powder on the end of the nail and hold the paw off the table or counter for a few moments. The bleeding should stop very quickly with these. Try not to let the dog lick the toe until the bleeding has stopped completely. Remember, the toe will be sensitive after this so be careful.
I like to use cat nail clippers because I personally think they are easier to use and I can see the nail better. Just remember to have styptic powder with benzocaine on hand in case you clip a nail to far.
Feeding a Yorkie:
There are many opinions out there as to what to feed your yorkie. Many people favor one food because their dog particularly likes it or they may favor the ingredients.
When your Yorkie puppy arrives home he will have been on a regular feeding routine. It is highly recommend that you continue using this food. If you want to change to another brand, do so slowly over a period of a week or more, as this will minimize digestive upsets.
Yorkie puppies are very small, so you should not be surprised if they eat only a tablespoon or so of dry kibble at a time. They should be fed 4 times a day to start, but by 12 to 14 weeks you can drop to 3 feedings. Dog food companies have developed nutritionally complete, balanced foods that need not be supplemented with table scraps or vitamins & minerals. In fact, daily meals should not include more than 10% table scraps. Doing so can create an unbalanced diet and can be detrimental to his overall health.
Remember, your Yorkie is just like any other child, he has to be reminded to slow down and take a nap, it is very important not to overexert your Yorkie puppy. He needs a healthy balance of eating quality food and exercise. Never let him go more then 8 hours without eating.
When selecting a commercial food for your animal companion, make sure the label has an "AAFCO guarantee," preferably one that references "feeding tests" or "feeding protocols" rather than Nutrient Profiles. Never buy a food containing "by-product meal" or "meat and bone meal." These rendered products are the most inexpensive sources of animal protein. The contents and quality of these meals can vary tremendously from batch to batch, and are not a reliable source of nutrition for your animal. In general, avoid foods that rely on by-products as the sole source of animal protein. By-products consist of organs and parts either not desired, or condemned, for human consumption. An occasional can of by-product-based food may be okay, since, in the wild, carnivores do consume the whole prey including the organs, but these foods are not acceptable as a steady diet. Look for a named meat or meal ("lamb" or "chicken meal," for example, instead of the generic term "meat") as the first ingredient. Avoid generic or store brands. These may be repackaged rejects from the big manufacturers, and generally contain cheaper -- and consequently poorer quality -- ingredients.
Unless specifically recommended by your veterinarian, avoid "light," "senior," "special formula," or "hairball formula" foods. These foods may contain acidifying agents, excessive fiber, or inadequate fats that can result in skin, coat and other problems. In general, select brands promoted to be "natural." While they are not perfect, they may be better than most. Several brands are now preserved with Vitamins C and E instead of chemical preservatives (such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin and propyl gallate). While synthetic preservatives may still be present, the amounts will be less.
Mia was a very picky eater as a tiny puppy. I had to feed her chicken baby food through a syringe because she would eat nothing else except Nutrical. Gradually she would eat a mixture I made of chicken or lamb babyfood, puppy canned food, and some Karo syrup. She also liked a homemade vanilla pudding recipe I got from Terri Shumsky for poor puppy eaters. Then I tried dried food with her and the one she liked the best, and still likes the best, is Royal Canin Mini Puppy. She still eats that 3 times a day: Occasionally she will go for a day or so not wanting to eat that so I feed her Wellness Sweet Potato/Fish puppy food for a day or so and then she wants the RC again. Eventually she will switch to Royal Canin Mini Yorkshire, made especially for Yorkshire Terriers. You can get RC from Petsmart and the Wellness is sold in specialty pet stores. However, the Wellness kibbles are quite larger than the RC and Mia likes the tiny kibbles. Her favorite snacks are watermelon, Pupperoni, and vanilla ice cream!
